An art college and cultural centre in one, Central Saint Martins is internationally renowned for the creative energy of its students, staff and graduates.
 |
| In the middle: Derek Lawlor dress from 2009 |
MA Show 2011
 |
| Californian-born Shaun Samson started off in LA, then continued to put his best fashion-foot forward, emigrating to the UK in order to enrol at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. He's worked on a total of four collections for Jeremy Scott, which suggests to me - considering the disparity between his own work and Jeremy Scott's brash and barmy aesthetic - that he may be a new Kaiser Karl of sorts, a commercially astute designer capable of catering to several different needs. |
 |
Composed mainly of oversized silhouettes somehow enticing in their awkwardness, Samson's graduate collection which won this year's Fashion Collection of the Year (€15,000 and a fully-produced catwalk show) is perhaps best described as a fabric nerd's tartan-covered woolly wet-dream. Inspired by Latino street-culture, American work-wear and prison uniform, the collection was exclusively sponsored by Woolrich which makes for a happy, and somewhat more solvent Samson, but a slightly compromised collection which in some ways seems to have restricted the designer to variations on a theme: the luxe Neanderthal.
|
 |
His technical innovation (he invented a needle punch felting technique which enables him to combine several dissimilar fabrics into a seemingly seamless gradation of materials) smacks of Prada, while his cuts and austere aesthetic (loud check prints aside) echo the masters of minimalism, Marni by Consuelo Castiglioni and Raf Simons.
|
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: only a member of this blog may post a comment.